Three weeks back, I wrote here about the devastating Lahaina fire on Maui and having traveled there several decades ago with deeply fond memories. The town, I said, "had a sense of the past and world culture that seemed to be living all around you." I particularly singled out the Pioneer Inn, where I stayed and remembered with great affection, all the more so since it was destroyed in the fire.
"But most of all, I loved staying at the Pioneer Inn. It permeated the Old World with simplicity and warmth, and I soaked it all up, reveling in knowing not only how it fit into the whaling past, but that people like Mark Twain had stayed there. Its wood structure painted white, with wonderful wood slats in the windows, and a Polynesian sensibility crossed with New England sturdiness." I had such fondness for the Pioneer Inn that I'd kept matchbook keepsake from my time there, and embedded photos of it. I had wanted to post a photo of the place itself, but didn't think I had access to a photo I'd taken of the Pioneer Inn -- but happily I was able to find it. I've added it in the originally article. And as an homage, since I figure most people here aren't going to be going back to read it, I include it below
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If you didn't see Last Week Tonight with John Oliver last night, the Main Story was on the British Monarchy. If you've watched his show much at all, you know this is a topic of great, scathing interest to him -- and he's open about that. But, subjective though the report it, they're clearly trying to be objective and fact-based about the issues. And it certainly lends itself to a lot of scathing humor... With the passing of Queen Elizabeth at the age of 96, after 70 years as monarch, I was trying to think of good stories I might have about meeting your. I ended up with zero. However -- I do have one tale with does deal with crossing paths with her in a way. I've told the story here a couple of times during appropriate World Cup Football matches, originally writing it on June 18, 2014. So, accepting that this is really drawing an incredibly tangential connection, here's the tale again, along with photos as proof. Besides, hey, it's the best that I can do for the occasion. One of the Greatest Sports Miracles Ever Now that the World Cup has started, and the United States has come up with a miracle victory, I thought this would be a good time to tell the story of not only one of the greatest, unknown World Cup miracles, but one of the all-time great sports miracles, period. It's how my family and I got to see the World Cup in London, 1966, And I'm serious. Okay, no, it's not the upstart United States hockey team beating the Soviet steamrollers. Or the unknown Roulon Gardner defeating the unbeaten, invincible legend Alexander Karelin. It's not Kirk Gibson hitting a home run on one leg, or Doug Flutie's Hail Mary. But those are more remarkable physical achievements by talented athletic. This was an act of otherworldly intervention. When I was but a wee kidling, my family took a summer trip to Europe. One of our stops was London, where as fate would have it, the British were hosting the World Cup that year. As maniacal as we know the rest of the world is over soccer, England might be the home of soccer insanity. In a land known for tradition, soccer riots are de rigeur there. If you're not rioting, you're not trying. Nonetheless, my dad thought it would fun to see a World Cup match. (Note: The concept of it being "fun" to see a World Cup match is not relatable for most soccer fans, most especially those who are the aforementioned British. "Fun" is a nice get together for tea, or taking your dog for walkies. Being able to see a World Cup match in England is closer to being life-affirming.) And so, uncaring of the obstacles, my dad found out how to apply to the world lottery being held to get tickets He sent in his form and enclosed his check, and then went on with his life. Meanwhile, throughout England there was national prayer held nightly in homes throughout the country, if only the Almighty would grant them a ticket. We got four tickets. But that's not the story, it's not even close to the miracle. It's just the heavens warming up. Because, you see, we just get four tickets to the World Cup, we got them for...the Opening Match! Which would be filled with grand celebration and royalty. But thing is -- that's not the story, either. Because, again you see, featured in the Opening Match of World Cup 1968 was a team that it was likely British fans -- so knowledgeable of all the great teams in the world -- would dearly would love to see. That team was England. Yes, that's right. By just randomly sending in to the worldwide lottery, we got four tickets to the Opening Match of the World Cup between England and Uruguay, held in London at Wembley Stadium. And here's the thing: no, that's not the sports miracle, either. I should note that we were very happy to get the tickets. Not "mad-crazy-happy, my life has been made whole" like anyone in England would have been to get those four tickets, but certainly happy. But happy as in, boy, this will be fun. I mean, to be honest, one has to put this in perspective. Wembley Stadium is huge, after all. It seats 90.000 people, which is 80,000 more than the town, Glencoe, we lived in. So, the chances of seeing the match very well were small. And not being mad-crazy soccer fanatics, not being able to see the game very well in the nosebleed section would certainly lessen the majesty of the moment. But still, that didn't matter all that much, since I was pretty young and didn't know the rules of soccer all that well. (I can't speak for the rest of my family, though I suspect I knew more than my mother. You kick the ball and hope it goes in the net.) But just being there in the massive crowd, somewhere, anywhere, amid all the excitement, that would be cool. Just to be able to say we were there. Wherever "there" was. Where "there" was turned out to be -- okay, are you ready: mid-field, center line, halfway up, directly across the field from where the Queen of England was sitting in the Royal Box. Okay, that's the sports miracle. Let me repeat. With the entire world of sports fanatics converging on London, England, for the World Cup, we got four tickets to the Opening Match in which the host country England was playing, seated at midfield halfway up Wembley Stadium across from the Queen of England. Seriously. And to be clear, this isn't the fuzzy memory of a little kid recalling things far better than they actually were. Exaggerating for posterity. No, I have photographic evidence. I took pictures. (Sorry for the guy's head. I wasn't great at composition at that age.) Look directly across the field. Do you see that "box" just below the horizontal white line, marking the upper level? That's where the Royal Family is sitting. Directly opposite us. If you look closely, I believe that Queen Elizabeth is waving at you. I told you I wasn't lying. It was pretty remarkable. As I said to my dad just a couple days ago, reminding of the story, if he had decided to sell these tickets it would have paid for the entire trip. "And," he added, "your college education. And your brother's." The crowd, the ceremony, the excitement, the game, it was great. Memorable to one's bones. Absolutely wonderful, historic. There was only one disappointing thing about the match. Ever since I knew we had the tickets, one of the things I was looking forward to seeing was England score a goal amid that maniacal crowd going soul-bursting wild for the home team. (Even at that age, I grasped the concept of such drama.) And the final score of the game between England and Uruguay was...0-0. Zippo. Or as the soccer folks like to say, "Nil." Or more accurately, nil to nil. (More action photos from the collection of photo-journalist Robert J. Elisberg. Notice the compositional improvement after many minutes of experience represented here by the lack of heads getting at least completely in the way. Hey, when you're a little kid, people are bigger than you are.) So, no bursting of massive cheers by the heart-loyal English crowd at the site of the goal for their beloved home team. No cheers over a goal from anyone. On the good side, at least we weren't there to see England lose. In fact, just so you know, the zero goals were not the result of a mediocre team. Indeed, host England went on to win the world championship. They just didn't choose to get any goals that particular day. Hey, that's the way some miracles go. Sometimes, the fates decide to put the miracle in perspective. After all, you shouldn't take the good and miracle for granted. But a dozen years before Al Michaels asked the question of sports fans at the Lake Placid Olympics, I had already been able to answer the sports question. Yes, I do believe in miracles. When I next get together with the Queen, I'm sure we'll swap tales of that day. No doubt it wasn't as much a sports miracle for her -- I'm sure she had an in, or went to a scalper -- but it was nonetheless quite a day of national pomp and circumstance, so I'm sure she had to have written about it in her journal. For all I know, she's got snapshots of me in return. When talking with my dad about this the other day, he noted one other thing. "How did I get those seats??" It was a miracle, dad. The greatest sports miracle ever. At least to some people. Although for years the celebration moved around the calendar a bit more than in the past and was therefore somewhat difficult to track down (no pun intended), today -- we are full of joy to announce -- once again is that most grand fest, National Train Day. At least it is here at Elisberg Industries, and that's good enough as a starting point. You won't find it on any calendars for any number of reasons, but the most important is that since Amtrak funding got cut back they stopped promoting it after 2016. (And the reason for it moving around the calendar is that it was never a set day, but the Saturday closest to May 10. Why May 10, I hear you cry? Because that's the anniversary of the Golden Spike being driven in at Promontory Point, Utah, to complete the building of the Transcontinental Railroad.) But whether or not it remains an officially promoted holiday by the government -- and isn't being celebrated here on a proper Saturday due to prior commitments, think of it as the train running behind schedule -- National Train Day (or as it used to be known around these parts once upon a time as "Let's Make Chris Dunn's Head Explode Day," but no more since he now, at long last, acknowledges Bridge on the River Kwai as a train movie) is nonetheless still one of the most joyous holidays of the year. This is a photo from a family trip years ago. We were in Switzerland, and for reasons that shouldn't be too surprising it's one of my favorite train photos. And remains a classic in Elisberg Family Lore, the beloved Bob Train. For our part here, we celebrate National Train Day on these pages by posting a list of the greatest train movies. These are films in which trains are absolutely central to the story. Where a train is the driving force of the tale, without which you can’t properly describe the plot. (Think of it like the classic and beloved Santa Claus song, "Santa Claus is Coming to Town." Santa Claus isn't actually in the song at all. He hasn't even shown up yet. In most ways, it's about "you" and what you should do -- or better not do. But even though there's not a hint of Santa Claus even appearing in the song, without Santa Claus...there's no song.) We're strict about this. A friend once recommended The Taking of Pelham-1-2-3, and it was strongly considered, but that was a subway train or light rail. This list is for full-bore trains, the kind that either have sleeping cars and dining cars, or could if they were hitched on. But I've added it to our Honorable Mention list this year. Since the list is fluid, we keep adding to it. The most recent additions are The Girl on the Train and The 5:17 to Paris. They both were released several years ago, but sometimes it takes me a while to catch up. It was a toss of the coin with The 5:17 to Paris. I don't think it's a great movie, though an well-done one, based on a true story, but as a train movie the train sequence is long and absolutely gripping -- and notable for using the real-life people from the event as the film's stars, even though they weren't actors, and they acquit themselves well. So, in the end I decided it had enough to include it. I've left off the 2017 remake of Murder on the Orient Express -- at least for now (the list is fluid, after all, as I said) -- since the original is already on it, and was not only much better for my taste but, equally important, more true to the Agatha Christie novel, which bothered me about the remake. However, it's a good film, so I've included it among the Honorable Mentions. There are two other categories: the just-mentioned Honorable Mention is for movies which you can generally tell their stories without using the word "train," but they have some connection to trains -- usually a great, standout train sequence -- that makes them memorable. And a few years ago I added a new category of Special Mention, for works that don't qualify as a train movie or perhaps even as a movie at all, but deserve a place of honor. For instance, Stephen Ambrose's excellent book on the building of the Transcontinental Railroad, Nothing Like It in the World. And as I noted in the past, though something I think is likely very obvious, I love train movies. Here is the current list of Great Train Movies. Around the World in 80 Days Back to the Future 3 Bridge on the River Kwai The Commuter The Darjeeling Limited Emperor of the North The 5:17 to Paris The General The Girl on the Train The Great Locomotive Chase The Great Train Robbery The Lady Vanishes Murder on the Orient Express (1974) The Narrow Margin North by Northwest Northwest Frontier Night Train to Munich Polar Express Runaway Train Shanghai Express Silver Streak Snowpiercer Source Code Strangers on a Train Tough Guys The Train Transsiberian Twentieth Century Union Pacific Union Station Unstoppable Von Ryan’s Express Honorable Mention Throw Momma from the Train Planes, Trains and Automobiles The Greatest Show on Earth Go West At the Circus Cat Ballou Trading Places Murder on the Orient Express (2017) Special Mention Great Railway Journeys of the World (TV documentary) Nothing Like It in the World by Stephen Ambrose (book) The Railrodder (short) The Taking of Pelham-1-2-3 I've also added another new feature in recent year -- a scene from one of the Great Train Movies, or another entry on the list. This year, we have one of the greatest stunts ever in a movie -- easily one of the top, if not top, stunts in a train movie. This is Sean Connery doing his own stunt in the 1978 film, The Great Train Robbery, based on the novel by Michael Crichton. Just know that it's only part of the scene, and, yes, this is really him. This is a charming story out of Texas by way of Philadelphia to Rome. During the winter freeze this past February in Texas when the power grid failed, 91-year-old Ezell Holley had to move out of his home temporarily. His granddaughter Alex, who cohosts the TV show, Good Day Philadelphia, get him an available room (they were hard to come by, as you can imagine) that the family jokingly called the Waldorf Astoria. She and her grandfather posted a series of sweet video about him taking his stay at the Waldorf all in stride. And the story came to the attention of a real Waldorf Astoria, the Rome Cavalieri. And they invited him and a guest to be their guest. Conditions improved enough that few weeks ago, Ezell and his granddaughter finally went – as did the whole family, paying the additional way themselves. When they arrived, they all got another surprise – the hotel put them up in the penthouse. Alex Holley documented it all, and this is the story they showed on Good Day Philadelphia. (My favorite moment may be with the desk clerk when they check out. I don’t want to say why.) By the way, I'm going to take a bit of a digression here for a moment. But as I was reading the story, I oddly and surprisingly had an extremely tiny but personal connection with the story, all because of one word. When I read that the hotel was the Rome Cavalieri, I flashed back to a hotel with a similar name that my family stayed in on my very first trip to Europe when I was a young kid. It was called the Cavalieri Hilton. (“Cavalieri” is Italian for…well, cavalier, or knight.) But then a thought hit me – wait, was this not just a similar name but, in fact, the very same hotel?? Did Hilton buy the Waldorf Astoria properties and then upgrade this to that luxury level?? I dove in and did some searching. And…and... …and, yes!! I found one website that refers to the now-Rome Cavalieri Waldorf Astoria as “The former Rome Hilton” and another that says, “Inaugurated in 1963 by Conrad N. Hilton himself, the opening of the Rome Cavalieri coincided with a period of unprecedented economic development and the heyday of the so-called 'Dolce Vita.'” Our trip was 1966, in its very earliest days, just three years after it opening. The hotel was very nice, but…NO, not at the Waldorf Astoria level of "very nice" it is now, and most definitely nothing like the utterly spectacular penthouse. Further, I actually still have the stylish ashtray that I, er…took from the room, which I thought (even as a kidling) that it looked very nice. And not only do I still have it, but still use in on my desk, about 18 inches from me as I type this. So, it wasn’t merely a souvenir that a little kid took and soon threw away, or something buried in boxes. It’s done its duty for a very long time. I’ve taken out all the paraphernalia usually sitting in it so that you can see the Conrad Hilton “CH” logo. And as a bonus, this is a photo I took of my older brother John. The hotel (as the news report notes) overlooks the Vatican, which historically has long been protected by the Swiss Guard. So, John put on a little hat and took one of the long pillows from the sofa and did his bit to join the Swiss Guard and help defend the place from high. Anyway, back to Ezell Holley and Family being treated like royalty and having the time of their – and most notably, his – lives. Although for years the celebration moved around the calendar a bit more than in the past and was therefore somewhat difficult to track down (no pun intended), today -- we are full of joy to announce -- once again is that most grand fest, National Train Day. At least it is here at Elisberg Industries, and that's good enough as a starting point. You won't find it on any calendars for any number of reasons, but the most important is that since Amtrak funding got cut back they stopped promoting it after 2016. (And the reason for it moving around the calendar is that it was never a set day, but the Saturday closest to May 10. Why May 10, I hear you cry? Because that's the anniversary of the Golden Spike being driven in at Promontory Point, Utah, to complete the building of the Transcontinental Railroad.) But whether or not it remains an officially promoted holiday by the government -- and isn't being celebrated here on a proper Saturday due to prior commitments, think of it as the train running behind schedule -- National Train Day (or as it was known around these parts once upon a time, but no more!, as "Let's Make Chris Dunn's Head Explode Day") is nonetheless still one of the most joyous holidays of the year. (This was taken in a family trip when I was a kid. For reasons that won't be shocking, it became part of family lore. I believe that the Bob Train was in Switzerland.) For our part here, we celebrate National Train Day on these pages by posting a list of the greatest train movies. These are films in which trains are absolutely central to the story. Where a train is the driving force of the tale, without which you can’t properly describe the plot. (Think of it like the classic and beloved Santa Claus song, "Santa Claus is Coming to Town." Santa Claus isn't actually in the song at all. He hasn't even shown up yet. In most ways, it's about "you" and what you should do -- or better not do. But even though there's not a hint of Santa Claus even appearing in the song, without Santa Claus...there's no song.) We're strict about this. A friend once recommended The Taking of Pelham-1-2-3, and it was strongly considered, but that was a subway train or light rail. This list is for full-bore trains, the kind that either have sleeping cars and dining cars, or could if they were hitched on. But I've added it to our Honorable Mention list this year. I should also note that, since the list is fluid, we've added another new movie to the list of Great Train Films, this time a movie thriller from 2016, The Girl on the Train. There are two other categories: Honorable Mention is for movies which you can tell their stories without using the word "train," but they have some connection to trains -- usually a great, standout train sequence -- that makes them memorable. And a few years I added a new category of Special Mention, for works that don't qualify as a train movie or perhaps even as a movie at all, but deserve a place of honor. For instance, Stephen Ambrose's excellent book on the building of the Transcontinental Railroad, Nothing Like It in the World. And as I noted in the past, though something I think is likely very obvious, I love train movies. Here is the current list of Great Train Movies. Around the World in 80 Days Back to the Future 3 Bridge on the River Kwai The Commuter The Darjeeling Limited Emperor of the North The General The Girl on the Train The Great Locomotive Chase The Great Train Robbery The Lady Vanishes Murder on the Orient Express The Narrow Margin North by Northwest Northwest Frontier Night Train to Munich Polar Express Runaway Train Shanghai Express Silver Streak Snowpiercer Source Code Strangers on a Train Tough Guys The Train Transsiberian Twentieth Century Union Pacific Union Station Unstoppable Von Ryan’s Express Honorable Mention Throw Momma from the Train Planes, Trains and Automobiles The Greatest Show on Earth Go West At the Circus Cat Ballou Trading Places Special Mention Great Railway Journeys of the World (TV documentary) Nothing Like It in the World by Stephen Ambrose (book) The Railrodder (short) The Taking of Pelham-1-2-3 I've also added another new feature last year -- a scene from one of the Great Train Movies, or another entry on the list. We're going to go with one of my favorite scenes (if not my favorite) from the original 1974 production of Agatha Christie's Murder on the Orient Express -- the good version. This comes early in the film after all the set-up and we finally see the legendary train depart from Paris. It's a love letter to trains, with the wonderful score by Richard Rodney Bennett starting softly and then soaring. |
AuthorRobert J. Elisberg is a political commentator, screenwriter, novelist, tech writer and also some other things that I just tend to keep forgetting. Feedspot Badge of Honor
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